4/18/10

The Sunday Movie

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That world contest shook up California surfing, Doyle recalled. At the time we were all riding 10-foot surfboards with trash-can noses, and we were still into an old-fashioned style of surfing there you stomp on the tail to kick the nose up, let the wave build-up go in front of you, then you either run forward and crouch down inside the tube, or else you stand on the nose and arch back in a kind of pose. We had all these stock poses we did over and over el Spontaneo, Quasimodo, Nose Tweaking, Bell Ringing.

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